NonnarioRicettario d'Italia

Lombardia · Milano

Risotto alla milanese

Milanese saffron risotto

Golden risotto with saffron and butter — and, classically, beef marrow — the partner of ossobuco.

Course
Primo piattoPasta & rice
Serves
4
Hands-on
10 min
Cooking
21 min
Resting
16 min+
Risotto alla milanese

La provenienza

Where this recipe comes from

A popular legend links saffron risotto to the glaziers of Milan Cathedral in the sixteenth century, who used saffron to colour glass. The legend is unproven; what is certain is that the dish was well established in Milanese cookbooks by the nineteenth century.

The city of Milan reportedly gave the risotto a municipal designation of origin (De.Co.) in 2007; the official text could not be found, so the recipe here follows the version Milanese sources agree on: butter rather than oil, saffron added halfway through, and beef marrow in the soffritto for those who keep to tradition.

Provenance
Documented traditionA regional tradition documented in cookbooks and local practice, with no single official text.
Defined by
Milanese tradition
Reference
Documented in nineteenth-century cookbooks
Milano, Lombardia

Ingredienti

Ingredients

4 servings

Equipment

  • Wide, heavy pan with a thick base, about 28 cm across
  • Saucepan for the broth, kept on a simmer
  • Wooden spoon and a ladle
  • Kitchen scale accurate to 0.1 g for the saffron

Preparazione

Method

About 35 minutes, of which 18 are the risotto itself. Have everything weighed, the broth hot and the saffron infusing before the rice goes in: once it starts, it does not wait.

  • 10 minhands-on
  • 21 mincooking
  • 16 minresting, at least

Preparation

  1. Rest 15 min

    Bring the broth to a gentle simmer and keep it there. Put the saffron threads in a cup with a ladle of hot broth (about 100 ml) and leave them to infuse.

    Tip Infused for at least 15 minutes, the threads give all their colour and aroma.

  2. Hands-on 5 min

    Chop the onion very finely (2 mm). Dice the cold butter and put 30 g back in the fridge for the end. Grate the cheese.

The risotto

  1. Cooking 5–7 minHeat medium-low

    In the wide pan, melt 30 g of the butter with the beef marrow over medium-low heat and soften the onion for 5–7 minutes, without colouring.

    Check Translucent and soft, not golden.

  2. Hands-on 2–3 minHeat medium

    Add the rice and stir for 2–3 minutes over medium heat, until every grain is coated, hot to the touch and translucent at the edges.

    Check The grains crackle faintly and feel hot when you touch them.

    Tip Toasting seals the grains so they release starch slowly and stay separate.

  3. Hands-on 2 min

    Pour in the wine and stir until it has evaporated, 1–2 minutes.

  4. Cooking 9 minHeat medium — a lively simmer

    Add a ladle of hot broth (about 150 ml) and stir. Each time it is almost absorbed, add another. Keep the risotto at a lively simmer and stir regularly.

    Tip The broth must always be hot: cold broth stops the cooking and makes the risotto gluey.

  5. Cooking 7–9 minHeat medium

    After about 9 minutes, stir in the saffron with its broth, and keep adding broth as before.

    Check Taste a grain after 16 minutes from the start: tender outside, a slight firm bite at the centre. The risotto should still be loose and flowing.

The ‘mantecatura’

  1. Hands-on 1 min

    Take the pan off the heat while the risotto is still a little loose. Add the cold butter and the grated cheese and beat vigorously with the spoon for about a minute until creamy.

    Check Glossy and creamy, flowing slowly when you tilt the pan — ‘all'onda’, like a wave.

  2. Rest 1 min

    Cover and rest for one minute, then spoon onto flat plates and tap the base of each plate so the risotto spreads out evenly.

    Tip Serve immediately: risotto keeps cooking on the plate and loses its wave within minutes.

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Errori comuni

Common mistakes

  • Adding cream: the creaminess comes from the starch and the mantecatura.
  • Using oil instead of butter — the Milanese risotto is a butter dish.

Fuori dall'Italia

Cooking it outside Italy

  • If you cannot find marrow, use a little more butter — the dish loses depth but stays correct.

Altre ricette

More primipasta & rice from other regions